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How to Prepare Soil Without Heavy Lifting
Gardening doesn’t have to hurt your back. Here's how to prepare soil the easy way: Test Your Soil: Check texture with a jar test (sand, silt, clay). Measure pH (ideal: 6–7) using a digital meter, strips, or lab tests. Assess density with a rod or soil penetrometer. Use Ergonomic Tools: EarthLifter Tool: Reduces strain with a 4:1 mechanical advantage. Try No-Dig Methods: Sheet Mulching: Layer organic materials over grass to suppress weeds and enrich soil. Lasagna Beds: Alternate "green" and "brown" layers for fertile soil. Surface Composting: Spread compost on top and let nature work. Keep Soil Healthy: Plant ground covers to protect and enrich the soil. Rotate crops to balance nutrients and reduce pests. Use winter cover crops to prevent erosion and boost fertility. How to grow a No-Dig Garden | The RHS Step 1: Check Your Soil Before diving into planting, it's important to understand your soil’s characteristics. Test Soil Texture Knowing your soil’s texture can guide you in improving its quality. A simple jar test can help you figure out the proportions of sand, silt, and clay in your soil: Fill a clear jar about one-third full with sifted soil. Add water until the jar is nearly full. Shake it thoroughly to create a uniform mixture. Let it sit undisturbed on a flat surface. As the mixture settles, you’ll see distinct layers forming: Sand settles within 1 minute. Silt takes about 2 hours to start settling. Clay may take up to 48 hours to fully settle. This test gives you a snapshot of your soil’s composition and its ability to retain moisture and circulate air. Measure Soil pH Most plants grow best in soil with a pH between 6 and 7. Testing your soil’s pH can help you decide if adjustments are necessary. Here are some testing options to consider: Testing Method Cost Accuracy Time to Results Digital pH Meter $7–$25 High Immediate Test Strips $10–$15 Medium 2–3 minutes Lab Testing $15–$30 Very High 1–2 weeks Once you know your soil’s pH, you can make changes to ensure nutrients are more accessible to your plants. Test Soil Density Compacted soil can reduce crop yields by as much as 10%. To check for compaction without heavy equipment, try these methods: Visual Inspection: Look at plant roots. Twisted or sideways growth often points to compacted soil. Basic Probe Test: Use a thin metal rod to feel for resistance in the soil. Professional Testing: A soil penetrometer provides precise measurements. If readings exceed 300 psi, root growth is likely restricted. For larger areas, take readings every 100 to 150 feet to identify trouble spots without exhausting yourself. Once you’ve assessed your soil’s condition, you’ll be ready to choose ergonomic tools to prepare it for planting. Step 2: Choose Back-Saving Tools Once you've assessed your soil, it's time to gear up with tools that make gardening easier on your back. Research backs this up - ergonomic gardening tools can cut muscle fatigue by as much as 25%, according to a 2019 study. The Arthritis Foundation also notes these tools can ease joint stress by up to 30%. Use the EarthLifter Tool The EarthLifter Tool takes soil preparation to the next level with its clever design. Its patented rolling fulcrum delivers a 4:1 mechanical advantage, helping you maintain proper posture while working. "I wanted to eliminate the heavy and the hard and the hurt aspects." – Neil Bevilaqua, Inventor of the EarthLifter Tool In a July 2024 interview on the "In The Garden With Ron Wilson" iHeart podcast, Neil Bevilaqua explained how the tool’s ergonomic features reduce strain on the back, neck, elbows, and shoulders. The EarthLifter’s curved tines and rolling fulcrum make it ideal for tasks like: Lifting delicate plants Removing deep-rooted weeds Tilling soil Harvesting root vegetables Level Soil with Standing Rakes Standing rakes with adjustable handles are a must for leveling soil without putting undue strain on your back. Look for these features to maximize comfort and efficiency: "Ergonomic tools are designed around the gardener. They can significantly reduce discomfort and fatigue and reduce injuries." To get the most out of your tools, keep your wrist in a neutral position and take regular breaks. If your existing tools lack comfort, try wrapping handles with foam pipe insulation for a better grip. Step 3: Try No-Dig Methods No-dig gardening offers a smarter and less labor-intensive way to prepare your soil while encouraging its natural health. By skipping the heavy lifting, these methods let nature take the lead, allowing beneficial organisms to do much of the work for you. Layer with Sheet Mulch Sheet mulching is a simple yet powerful way to transform poor soil into a fertile growing space - no digging or tilling required. This technique involves layering organic materials directly over grass or weeds, creating a nutrient-rich environment. "Sheet Mulching is the easiest way to start a new garden, and anyone can do it. With sheet mulching, you remove the backbreaking task of digging out your lawn. You simply layer organic materials on top of the grass." By suppressing weeds and enriching the soil, sheet mulching sets the stage for healthy, productive gardens. Build Lasagna Beds Building lasagna beds takes sheet mulching a step further by mimicking nature’s decomposition process. This method alternates layers of "green" (nitrogen-rich) and "brown" (carbon-rich) materials in a 2:1 ratio, creating a highly fertile environment for plants. "Once you see worm activity, you know you're on the right track to having good soil. All additional layers of organic material encourage and feed the earthworm population. Worms are nature's rototillers." A properly constructed lasagna bed, starting at around two feet in height, will naturally compress to 6–8 inches of nutrient-rich soil by spring. To get the best results: Use a cardboard base to block weeds. Keep layers evenly moist. Finish with a top layer of compost for immediate planting. Refresh the bed by adding new layers seasonally. Add Surface Compost For an even simpler no-dig option, surface composting is an effective way to improve soil health. This involves spreading a thin layer of compost directly on top of the soil, letting rain and worms naturally work the nutrients into deeper layers. If you already have an established garden, apply a thin layer (about ¼ to 1 inch) of compost once a year. This gentle method preserves the soil’s structure while steadily enhancing fertility over time. "A sheet mulch uses thick layers of organic material (like leaves, manure, grass clippings, and wood chips) to smother weeds and create incredibly fertile soil. Rather than digging or tilling into the surface of your soil, you layer organic materials on top of the soil, thereby composting in place." – Gardens That Matter Step 4: Keep Soil Healthy Maintaining healthy soil doesn't have to be a backbreaking task. With the right strategies, you can naturally improve soil quality while minimizing effort. Plant Ground Covers Ground covers act like a natural shield for your soil. They protect the top layer, help prevent weeds, and reduce erosion. "Covering exposed ground with plant growth as a 'living mulch' provides multiple benefits: suppressing weeds by outcompeting them for resources like light, moisture, and nutrients; controlling erosion and reducing runoff pollution by slowing stormwater and holding soil in place; enriching habitat by increasing plant diversity and providing resources for wildlife; enhancing a garden's aesthetic value by providing additional seasons of color, texture, or fragrance; substituting lawn in conditions not suitable for turfgrass and in areas too awkwardly-shaped or too small to mow or maintain." – University of Maryland Extension Choosing the right ground cover depends on your garden's conditions: Site Condition Recommended Ground Covers Full Sun Creeping Thyme, White Clover Partial Shade Ajuga, Sweet Woodruff Moist Areas Creeping Jenny, Marsh Marigold Dry Areas Sedum, Creeping Phlox Using ground covers is just one way to keep your soil thriving. Another method? Rotating your crops. Switch Plant Locations Crop rotation is a simple yet effective way to balance nutrients, keep pests at bay, and boost yields. Avoid planting the same plant family in the same spot for at least 3–4 years. Research backs this up: a four-year rotation combined with winter legume cover crops increased yields by 48%. Grow Winter Cover Crops Winter cover crops are a low-maintenance way to protect and enrich your soil. They can slash nutrient runoff by 50% and cut soil erosion by as much as 90%. "It's much easier than it maybe looks. It seems really unlikely that you're planting a seed in October that's going to somehow magically do something good for you… and they provide a lot of benefits without much effort. It makes a pretty amazing addition to the garden." – David Kidwell-Slak, NRCS National Plant Materials Center Manager The best time to plant cover crops is during any gap between your main crops. For example, fall-seeded grains can capture up to 71 pounds of nitrogen per acre in just three months, while legume cover crops can boost soil organic matter by 8% to 114%. These straightforward methods work hand-in-hand with earlier steps, ensuring your soil remains rich and productive without requiring heavy labor. Summary Prepping soil for gardening doesn’t have to be backbreaking. Tools like the EarthLifter, which reduce physical strain by up to 25%, are a game-changer. Pairing these tools with no-dig gardening takes the effort out of soil preparation while improving its health. No-dig gardening is a straightforward method that skips the heavy lifting. Instead of turning the soil, you layer organic matter directly on top. Studies show this approach can yield results comparable to traditional gardening but with far less time and energy. Here’s why no-dig methods are worth considering: Benefit Impact Weed Control Mulch layers naturally suppress weeds. Moisture Retention Keeps soil moist, reducing the need for frequent watering. Soil Structure Preserves drainage and supports fungal networks. Labor Reduction No need for heavy digging or tilling. Carbon Storage Minimizes soil disturbance, helping retain carbon. "No-dig gardening cares for soil by cutting out the need for cultivation... No-dig growing is often less work and can benefit the environment." – RHS Gardening The secret? Proper mulching. Spread 4–6 inches of well-rotted organic matter to create a nutrient-rich growing medium. Remember, the soil beneath your feet teems with life - from earthworms to microscopic organisms. Combine this method with ergonomic tools, and you’ve got a recipe for gardening without the aches and pains. FAQs What are the advantages of using no-dig methods for preparing soil instead of traditional digging or tilling? Using no-dig methods to prepare your soil offers several standout benefits compared to traditional digging or tilling. For starters, it keeps the soil's natural structure intact. This not only helps retain essential nutrients and moisture but also supports the microorganisms that contribute to healthier, more fertile soil. Plus, it reduces the risk of erosion, which can be a big win for your garden's long-term health. Another advantage? It's much easier on your body. No-dig gardening requires less physical effort, making it accessible for gardeners of all ages and fitness levels. On top of that, it cuts down on weeding time and minimizes soil compaction, which means your plants can grow stronger and healthier. With these perks, no-dig methods are a smart, efficient option for anyone - whether you're a weekend hobbyist or a professional grower. How can I keep my soil healthy year-round without heavy lifting? Maintaining soil health year-round doesn't have to be exhausting. A great starting point is adding organic matter such as compost or mulch. These not only improve the structure of your soil but also help it retain moisture and deliver nutrients that plants need. The best part? This step works no matter the season, giving your garden a solid foundation to thrive. Another helpful tip is planting cover crops during the off-season. These crops protect your soil from erosion, keep weeds in check, and naturally enrich the soil. Once they're tilled back into the ground, they contribute valuable organic matter and nutrients, giving your soil a boost for the next planting season. To make gardening less physically demanding, consider using ergonomic tools and methods. Long-handled tools or raised beds can make tasks like weeding, planting, and prepping soil much more manageable. With these adjustments, you can focus on working efficiently and comfortably, saving yourself from unnecessary strain. 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Ultimate Guide to Transplanting Delicate Plants Safely
Want healthier plants after transplanting? Start here. Transplanting delicate plants can be tricky, but with the right timing, tools, and techniques, you can minimize root damage and prevent transplant shock. Here’s what you need to know: Key Steps for Success: Handle roots gently to avoid damage. Transplant during cooler parts of the day for better results. Use tools like the EarthLifter to reduce physical strain and improve success rates. Why Timing Matters: A delay of one month can reduce plant yields by 25%; two months can cause up to 70% losses. Essential Tools: Hand trowels for precision. Mechanical tools like the EarthLifter for speed and efficiency (reduces labor by up to 90%). Aftercare Tips: Water thoroughly after transplanting. Use mulch to retain moisture and protect roots. Allow time for recovery, especially for larger plants. Seedling Transplanting 101: Timing, Mistakes, and Pro Tips 🌿 Why Delicate Plants Need Special Care Plants can be quite sensitive during transplanting, and if handled poorly, their recovery can be delayed by several days or even weeks. Common Transplanting Risks One of the biggest challenges when transplanting delicate plants is the vulnerability of their root systems. Gardening expert Logan Hailey explains: "Transplant shock is the initial stress a tree or shrub may face after being moved to a new location. A poorly developed or damaged root system is often the underlying cause for a recently relocated and unhappy plant". Several factors can harm plants during transplanting, but understanding these risks can help prevent them. Here's a quick breakdown: Risk Factor Impact Prevention Root Damage Limits water and nutrient absorption Keep roots moist and handle them gently Environmental Shock Causes wilting and leaf drop Transplant during cooler parts of the day Soil Changes Slows proper establishment Match the new soil conditions as closely as possible Physical Trauma Damages stems and leaves Hold plants by their leaves, not stems Benefits of Mechanical Transplanting Using mechanical tools can make a huge difference when transplanting delicate plants. Tools like the EarthLifter Tool, designed with a 4:1 mechanical advantage, help minimize root damage while giving you better control during the process. "Protecting the roots is key in preventing transplant shock, so always keep them out of direct sunlight and transplant them in the morning or evening." – Logan Hailey, Gardening Expert Here’s why mechanical tools are so helpful: Root Protection: Tools with curved tines keep the root ball intact and ensure consistent planting depth. Reduced Strain: Less manual handling means less stress on both the plant and the gardener. Improved Success Rates: Combining proper water management with mechanical assistance leads to better transplant outcomes. For the best results, keep the root ball moist throughout the process. Using diluted kelp or seaweed fertilizers can also help plants recover faster. These steps lay the groundwork for successful transplanting, which we'll explore further in the next section. Tools for Safe Plant Moving Having the right tools makes transplanting safer, faster, and more efficient. Modern mechanical tools, in particular, can significantly reduce labor while ensuring plant safety. Mechanical and Hand Tools While mechanical tools can handle heavy-duty tasks, traditional hand tools remain essential for detailed work. Here's a quick look at some tools that are commonly used for safe transplanting: Tool Type Primary Use Key Benefits Hand Trowel Creating planting holes Offers precise control for small plants Mechanical Transplanter Large-scale moving Cuts labor by up to 90% "One goal of transplanting is to keep the plant as intact as possible" For those looking to take efficiency to the next level, advanced tools like the EarthLifter are game-changers. This tool, in particular, stands out for its innovative design and focus on reducing strain. EarthLifter Tool Specifications The EarthLifter is a tool designed to make transplanting easier while minimizing physical effort. Its design addresses common challenges gardeners face, such as strain on the hands and back. As the tool’s creator, Neil Bevilacqua, explains: "After experiencing hand and spine issues, I created this tool to enable myself and others to enjoy work again." Neil Bevilacqua, Company Founder Here’s what makes the EarthLifter unique: Construction: Made from heavy-duty 1020 carbon steel with a durable fire engine red powder coating. Dimensions: Measures 47 inches in length and weighs 8 pounds. Safety Features: Equipped with dual-wide diamond plate non-slip foot pads. Mechanical Advantage: Provides a 4:1 force multiplication ratio. The tool’s patented "Rolling Fulcrum" design is particularly noteworthy. It works with gravity to reduce effort, as Ellen Wells from Planters Place explains: "With the EarthLifter, on the other hand, you're pushing down instead of lifting up. Sure, there's some lifting involved once whatever you are dislodging from the soil has made it to the soil surface, but the major resistance - the 'stuckness' of your object in the soil - has been overcome with less effort on your part." Additional features include: Nearly vertical lifting through curved tines. Gentle handling of root balls to avoid damage. One-handed operation for added convenience. Significant reduction in physical strain. The benefits of mechanical tools like the EarthLifter extend beyond individual tasks. For example, one user noted: "Labor and time savings are phenomenal. We can plant 2.5 acres in one, albeit long, day with just two people - one to drive and one to transplant - with our one-row transplanter. This frees us for the myriad other tasks that time of year - tending to weeding, for example." Whether you're managing a large-scale planting operation or tackling smaller jobs, tools like these can make a world of difference. sbb-itb-1801a3a Plant Moving Instructions Transplanting plants successfully takes thoughtful preparation to ensure they adjust well to their new environment. Pre-Moving Steps Getting plants ready for the move is key to their survival. Start by hardening off seedlings 1–2 weeks before transplanting. Begin with 2–3 hours of outdoor exposure each day, gradually increasing their time outside. "By preparing your seedlings for wind, temperature fluctuations, and sunlight - and keeping an eye on moisture levels - you're giving them the best possible start in the field." Healthy soil is just as important as healthy plants. About 2–3 weeks before transplanting, enrich the soil with compost and plan proper spacing based on the mature size of each plant. Once your plants are ready and the soil is prepped, use the EarthLifter Tool for a smooth and careful extraction process. Moving Plants with EarthLifter Tool The EarthLifter Tool makes transplanting easier while protecting the plant's root system. Here's how to use it effectively: Step Action Key Consideration Positioning Place the tool vertically at the plant base Ensure your footing is secure on both plates Lifting Push down on the handle The tool offers a 4:1 mechanical advantage Extraction Lift straight up to keep the root ball intact Reduces root damage during removal After-Move Plant Care Proper care after transplanting is essential for helping plants re-establish themselves. Research from The Morton Arboretum indicates that trees can lose up to 90% of their root system during the transplant process. Steps for Post-Transplant Care: Water the plant thoroughly right after transplanting. Add a 3–4 inch layer of organic mulch around the base, keeping it at least 6 inches away from the stems. Protect the plant from direct sunlight for the first few days. Water daily during the first week, then switch to deep watering once a week in warm weather. Increase watering frequency during hot conditions. Continue watering regularly until the leaves drop in the fall. For perennial plants, trim back about one-third of the foliage to ease the stress on the roots. For annuals with a main stem, cut off half of each leaf to balance water needs. Trees require more time to recover, typically about one year for every inch of trunk diameter. Keep the soil consistently moist but avoid overwatering, and skip fertilizing during the initial recovery period. Fixing Common Moving Problems Even with meticulous planning, transplanting plants can sometimes hit a few bumps. Here’s how to tackle some of the most frequent issues. Root-Bound Plant Solutions Root-bound plants need extra care during transplanting. When roots are tightly packed and circling, they must be gently untangled to encourage healthy growth in their new environment. Tools like the EarthLifter can help carefully separate the roots while preserving their structure, ensuring a safe and efficient transplant process. For plants that are severely root-bound: Carefully loosen and separate the bottom roots. Trim away any dead or decaying roots. While addressing cramped roots is critical, managing the stress plants experience during transplanting - known as plant shock - is just as important. Reducing Plant Shock Transplant shock often shows up in various ways, each requiring specific remedies: "Transplant shock in plants is almost unavoidable; plants are not designed to be moved, and such movement inherently causes stress." - Heather Rhoades Symptom Solution Recovery Time Wilting Provide morning shade and keep soil consistently moist. 1–2 weeks Leaf Discoloration Limit direct sunlight and apply diluted kelp fertilizer. 2–3 weeks Stunted Growth Use deep watering to maintain moisture and add organic mulch to stabilize soil temperature. 3–4 weeks These solutions work hand-in-hand with the transplanting techniques mentioned earlier in this guide. "Transplant shock is a common challenge in gardening, and even though your houseplant or tree may look as though it has one foot in the grave, don't give up hope. If you've done all the right things to support your plant in its new home, usually time and patience are the only things needed." Root Damage Recovery If roots are damaged during transplanting, quick action is key to help the plant recover. Initial Treatment Apply a 2- to 4-inch layer of organic mulch around the base of the plant, making sure it doesn’t touch the stems or trunks. This will insulate the roots and help regulate soil temperature. Ongoing Care and Soil Improvement Water deeply but less frequently to promote root growth, and enrich the topsoil with compost to encourage healthy microbial activity. For better soil aeration without disturbing the roots, vertical mulching techniques can be a great option. Research suggests that using diluted kelp or seaweed fertilizer can significantly ease transplant shock and boost both root and shoot development. However, avoid standard fertilizers during the early stages of recovery, as they can add unnecessary stress to already damaged roots. Keep a close eye on the plant’s progress, looking for signs of new growth. Most plants begin to recover within a few weeks when properly cared for. Larger plants, like trees, may take longer - about one year of recovery per inch of trunk diameter. Patience and consistent care are your best tools for success. Conclusion To achieve successful transplanting, it’s crucial to combine thoughtful planning, the right tools, and proper aftercare. The EarthLifter Tool, with its ergonomic design, reduces strain, minimizes root damage, and safeguards both the gardener and the plant. Here’s a quick recap of the key factors to keep in mind: Site Preparation: Ensure the soil is enriched with organic matter and has adequate moisture. Root Handling: Use tools that reduce root disturbance to protect the plant’s integrity. Aftercare: Maintain consistent soil moisture and provide temporary shade for the plant. Monitoring: Regularly check for recovery signs and adjust care as needed. "Starting a regular plant maintenance and inspection program to head off problems early and providing good aftercare will help maintain the health and vigor of your newly planted trees and shrubs". Timing is everything - transplanting during the right season and ensuring the soil is in good condition can make all the difference. Tools designed with rolling fulcrums and curved tines are especially effective at preserving the fragile mycorrhizal network, which plays a key role in plant health. FAQs How can I reduce transplant shock when moving delicate plants? When transplanting a plant, handling it with care is crucial to avoid unnecessary stress. Be gentle and keep the root ball intact to prevent root damage. To help the plant adjust to its new surroundings, gradually acclimate it by hardening it off. This process allows the plant to get used to changes in light, temperature, and wind. Keep the soil consistently moist, but be careful not to overwater, as excessive moisture can add more stress. Adding a root-boosting fertilizer can support healthy root development, speeding up the recovery process. Providing proper care during and after the transplant ensures the plant has the best chance to settle and thrive in its new home. What’s the best time of day and season to transplant delicate plants? The best times to transplant delicate plants are early in the morning or late in the afternoon. These cooler periods help reduce heat stress, giving plants a chance to settle into their new surroundings without battling the intense midday sun. Cloudy days are also a great choice since they lower the risk of wilting. As for the season, spring is ideal for transplanting most annual flowers once the danger of frost has passed. The warming soil creates the perfect conditions for healthy root development. Early fall is another excellent option, as the soil remains warm enough to encourage root growth before winter arrives. Steer clear of transplanting during periods of extreme heat or cold to ensure your plants have the best opportunity to thrive. What makes the EarthLifter Tool a great choice for transplanting delicate plants? The EarthLifter Tool is built with a 4:1 mechanical advantage, making it much simpler to lift and relocate delicate plants while minimizing the risk of strain or harm. This clever design significantly reduces the effort required, helping to keep fragile roots and stems safe during the transplanting process. With its ergonomic design, the tool offers improved control and comfort, enabling gardeners to handle sensitive plants with care and precision. Whether you're a home gardening enthusiast or a professional, the EarthLifter Tool is a practical and easy-to-use solution for streamlining gardening tasks and ensuring your plants stay protected. 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How to Lift and Stabilize Root Balls Safely
Lifting root balls can be tricky - but with the right tools and techniques, you can protect both the plant and yourself. Here's what you need to know upfront: Safety First: Improper lifting can lead to back injuries. Always bend at your knees, not your waist, and keep the load close to your body. Root Ball Size: For every inch of tree trunk diameter, the root ball should be about 12 inches wide. For example, a 1-inch caliper tree needs a 16-inch root ball. Tools Matter: Use ergonomic tools like the EarthLifter to reduce strain. It provides a 4:1 mechanical advantage for safer lifting. Soil Prep: Water the soil 24 hours before lifting to keep it moist but not soggy. Support the Roots: Wrap root balls in natural burlap and avoid synthetic materials. Secure with rope and pins to prevent damage during transport. Key Tip: Always prioritize proper lifting form and use tools to minimize physical strain. This ensures the plant’s survival and your safety. Ready to learn more? Let’s dive in. Before You Start Lifting Check Root Ball Size and Health Before lifting, it’s important to measure the size, weight, and overall health of your root ball. A good rule of thumb: for every inch of trunk diameter, the root ball should be about a foot in diameter. To measure the trunk diameter, check 6 inches above the ground for trees with a caliper under 4 inches, and 12 inches above the ground for larger trees. Here’s an approximate guide to root ball weights: Root Ball Diameter Weight (Approx.) 18 inches 37 lbs 24 inches 390 lbs 32 inches 850 lbs 42 inches 1,815 lbs For safe lifting, follow these minimum ball diameter guidelines: Small ornamental trees (5 ft tall): 16-inch ball diameter Shade trees (1-inch caliper): 16-inch ball diameter Needle leaf evergreens (9 ft tall): 32-inch ball diameter Once you’ve measured the root ball, prepare the surrounding soil for easier lifting. Soil and Water Preparation The soil needs to be damp but not overly wet. Loosen the soil around the lifting area to make the process smoother. Here’s how to prepare the area effectively: Water the soil 24 hours before lifting to ensure it’s moist. Mix in compost to improve soil structure and evenly apply fertilizer or bonemeal to avoid root burn. With the soil ready, it’s time to focus on using the right tools. Select Your Tools Using the proper tools can make a big difference in reducing physical strain. For example, the EarthLifter Tool offers a 4:1 mechanical advantage, making root ball lifting much easier. Its ergonomic design helps protect your joints and spine by promoting proper posture. Studies have found that ergonomic gardening tools can reduce muscle fatigue by up to 25% compared to standard tools. Choose tools that work with your body, not against it, to make the job safer and more efficient. Lifting Methods Correct Lifting Form Back injuries make up 20% of workplace injuries, with 75% of these happening during lifting tasks. To safely lift root balls, it’s important to follow proper techniques: Start by evaluating the weight using the recommended size guidelines. Stand close to the root ball with your feet shoulder-width apart. Keep your head up and focus on controlled breathing. Bend at your hips and knees - never your waist - and maintain a straight or slightly arched back throughout the process. When you lift, engage your core muscles and grip the root ball securely. Use your legs to push upward, keeping the load close to your body at waist height. Avoid these common mistakes: Twisting your torso while lifting Lifting heavy items above shoulder level Carrying loads that block your view When it’s time to set the root ball down, reverse the process: keep your back straight, squat with your legs, and maintain core engagement. Up next: how tools can make lifting even safer. Tool-Assisted Lifting For added safety and efficiency, consider using the EarthLifter Tool, which offers precise control during lifting. Neil Bevilacqua, the tool’s creator, explains: "After experiencing hand and spine issues, I created this tool to enable myself and others to enjoy work again". Research backs this up. A 2019 study found that ergonomic gardening tools reduced muscle fatigue by up to 25% compared to traditional tools. To use the EarthLifter Tool effectively, combine it with proper lifting form for the best results. Here’s how to lift with the tool: Position the Tool: Place the curved tines near the root ball’s edge and ensure the wide footplates provide stability. Apply Leverage: Push down on the handle to generate lifting power. Control the Lift: The tool’s design helps you lift shrub root balls with precision, minimizing damage to delicate root systems. For root balls with a trunk diameter over 5 inches, professional help might be required. Professional gardener Tim Hensley offers this advice: "It's better to err on the side of generosity, since digging a tree is sort of like cutting hair: Once you sever a root, you can't go back". If the root ball is particularly heavy, consider creating a soil ramp to slide it out of the hole instead of lifting it straight up. This method, paired with proper tool use, ensures both the plant and the worker stay safe. Safe Lifting Techniques for Gardeners sbb-itb-1801a3a Root Ball Support Once the root ball is safely lifted, giving it the right support is key to protecting the roots during transport and planting. Wrapping Methods Wrapping root balls in natural burlap provides essential protection during transport and replanting. This step connects the careful lifting process to successful planting. Use rope and pinning nails to secure the burlap, ensuring it fits snugly without restricting the roots. For added stability during transport, consider using wire baskets or straps to hold the wrapped root ball in place. Important tips to keep in mind: Avoid synthetic or insecticide-treated burlap, often identified by its green color. Remove any strings or straps around the trunk to prevent girdling. If using a wire basket, either remove it entirely during planting or at least cut off the top portion for easier removal later. "Root balls are fragile and should be handled carefully". Setting and Support After wrapping, prepare the planting site to support the root ball properly. Start by digging a saucer-shaped hole that’s two to three times wider than the root ball. Research from the University of Minnesota highlights that proper root ball preparation plays a major role in long-term growth. "The single most important thing you can do when planting any container-grown tree or shrub - not just a root-bound one - is to dig away the top of the medium from the container until you reach the first large root (one that is about a quarter of an inch thick) and plant the tree or shrub so that this root is even with or just above soil level". Steps for proper planting: Position the root collar slightly above ground level and firmly pack the surrounding soil to remove air pockets. Create a shallow basin around the base to hold water. Add organic mulch, keeping it at least 4 inches away from the trunk. Place 2-3 stakes evenly spaced outside the root system for stability. Water deeply once a week to encourage the roots to grow outward. The Arbor Day Foundation emphasizes: "Planting balled and burlapped trees helps ensure a stable transition for healthy growth". If planting must be delayed, store the root balls in a shaded area and cover them with organic material to keep them from drying out. After-Care Steps With the root ball securely wrapped and supported, follow these steps to give your transplant the best chance to thrive. Water and Soil Care Watering correctly is crucial for a successful transplant. Here's a simple guide to keep your plant hydrated: Water slowly and deeply to reach the roots. Avoid quick, shallow watering that only wets the surface. Stick to daily watering during the first week, then transition to deep weekly watering when the weather is warm (adjust for extreme conditions). Continue regular watering until the leaves naturally fall. Check soil moisture regularly to ensure it’s not too wet or too dry. To prevent the soil from settling, add fill dirt in 3- to 4-inch layers, watering between each layer to eliminate air pockets. Mix in high-quality tree soil to improve drainage, and apply a 2- to 3-inch layer of organic mulch around the base. Be sure to keep the mulch clear of the trunk to avoid rot or pests. Plant Health Checks The first two weeks after transplanting are critical for the plant to establish stable roots. Keep a close eye on its health by watching for these stress signals: Stress Signal What to Check Action Wilting Soil moisture Adjust watering if the soil feels too wet or too dry. Leaf drop Overall plant vigor Provide temporary shade if necessary. Discolored leaves Root function Ensure proper soil contact and check for drainage issues. Stunted growth Root establishment Confirm the planting depth and check soil support around the roots. The time it takes for a plant to fully establish can vary depending on the species and conditions, ranging from two to ten years. During this period, maintain consistent soil moisture and avoid fertilizing until you notice active growth. Make sure the soil is firmly tamped around the root ball, and if needed, use tree straps to provide extra support on windy days. Be cautious not to overtighten the straps, as this can restrict growth. Regular monitoring and care during this critical phase will help ensure the long-term health and stability of your transplant. Conclusion Handling root balls with care is essential for both the plant's health and the gardener's well-being. Taking the right steps during the dormant season greatly increases the chances of a successful transplant. At the same time, reducing physical strain is key to ensuring both your safety and the plant's survival. These basic principles create the groundwork for effective transplanting. Here are some important points to keep in mind: Safety and Ergonomics: The right tools can make all the difference. For example, the EarthLifter Tool offers a 4:1 leverage ratio, significantly reducing the physical effort required. Root Ball Care: Studies suggest that even when trees experience considerable root loss during digging, they can grow a stronger root system if left unstaked. Recovery Timeline: A good rule of thumb is to allow one year of recovery for every inch of the tree’s diameter. FAQs What are the key mistakes to avoid when lifting root balls to protect both yourself and the plant? When lifting root balls, it's important to steer clear of common mistakes that can lead to injuries or harm your plants. Here's what to watch out for: Lifting the wrong way: Always lift from the base of the root ball. Grabbing it from the top can damage the fragile roots. Underestimating size and weight: Misjudging how heavy or large the root ball is can strain your body or damage the plant. Make sure it's well-supported and within your capacity to handle. Handling dry soil: Dry soil is brittle and can easily break apart, exposing and harming the roots. Keep the soil moist to make lifting easier and safer for the plant. Planting too deep: The root flare - the point where the roots meet the trunk - should sit just above the soil line. Planting it too deep can hinder healthy growth. For added safety and ease, tools like the EarthLifter Tool can help minimize strain and give you better control while lifting. How can I tell if my soil is ready for lifting and transplanting a root ball? To get your soil ready for lifting and transplanting a root ball, focus on these important steps: Check the Soil: Make sure the soil is well-drained and packed with organic matter. Healthy soil supports root growth, so avoid anything that's too compacted or soggy. Assess Root Ball Stability: A firm root ball with a good network of fibrous roots is key. This helps the plant handle the move without damage. Prepare the Planting Hole: Dig a hole that's at least twice the width of the root ball but no deeper than its height. This keeps the plant stable and prevents it from sinking after transplanting. These measures will safeguard your plants and make the transplanting process easier and more effective. Why should I use natural burlap to wrap root balls, and what problems can synthetic materials cause? Natural burlap is a great option for wrapping root balls because it breaks down naturally over time. This allows roots to grow through it easily, giving them access to soil nutrients and moisture. As a result, plants can stay healthy and stable during the transplanting process. Plus, burlap encourages better airflow and holds moisture well, creating the right conditions for roots to thrive. On the other hand, synthetic materials can negatively impact plants. Since they don’t decompose, they can lead to root girdling when roots grow into the material. Synthetic wraps can also trap too much heat and moisture, which creates poor conditions for root health. By choosing natural burlap, you’re not only protecting your plants but also making an eco-friendly choice for your garden. Related posts Beginner's Guide to Safe Root Crop Harvesting How to Prevent Common Gardening Injuries: A Safety Guide 10 Ways to Make Garden Maintenance Easier on Your Back
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- garlic
- gut biome
Garlic – The magic plant for a fabulously healthy gut biome
Hello Garlic growers and friendsI have been exchanging information with Garlic Growers and related folks from manyregions for a very long time.The common or “fixed” variable is that all the original genetics or seed come from MySeeds (heads and cloves) grown in Bovina, NY. For the newer, or not as deeply involved folks, Garlic may be the most magnificent gift you give yourself, when you considerchoosing one plant embodying the essence of what a ‘gift’ is. A short dissertation about the almost magical properties of this ancient herb is that thereare hundreds of variations. My wife thinks that we have grown over 40 cultivars inquantities but have tried and definitely tasted well over 50. In 34 years I have about 16-18that we consider ‘main’ varieties (cultivars) and every year I try to propagate a few more.This year we have 18 main (between 40 and 150) all stars and trying to propagate another9. Probably around 1800+ Heads. This year my fellow scientist Barbara wanted me toenlarge a bunch of tiny size samples into our usual huge and delicious characteristics.This is only a hobby and a source of Gift Giving. We give about 30 friends and relatives 2or so heads of between 9 and 15 cultivars as a once a year: birthday, X-mas, Holidays,remembrance; whatever! Giving a box of chocolates would be much easier, cheaper andless time consuming, but giving a bunch of health, taste from ’sweat equity’, THAT is agift. I am amused by knowledge. It seems I realize how little I know the more I try to learn.Every year I try to remind my Grower friends about important times to check ‘waypoints’or gestation milestones. I also get amused when people say growing garlic is veryeasy??? Yes, garlic is easy, great Garlic is a pain and requires a lot of work. Think aboutit, what crop takes Planting in Oct-Nov (About 4 of us are in zone 4-5, some South, some‘beachy’ areas, some middle climates, etc.). My area is 2,000’ in Ski area, some say I livein Southern Siberia. We ‘pull’ and start to cure in July and don’t get fully ‘ripe’ untilSeptember…11 months! Garlic takes longer for full gestation than a human baby! Over the years I curated, tried, and culled my tastes to grow Only Hard Neck and only 4subspecies (mainly). Many reasons…taste is #1. There is a huge difference in wines,beers, Vodkas, etc. as well as many spices and foods of all types. My #2 reason is health.Garlic has 130 or so Sulphur compounds and Garlic is a primary PREbiotic (onion,asparagus, leeks and Garlic). Garlic is especially powerful as a sort of ‘fertilizer’ for theother Probiotics, and Gut Health is the primary ’nutrition network’ for the immunesystem. I can get extremely technical but just as a hint; my major studies for 40 years have to dowith Serotonin…a very difficult to understand neurotransmitter that is made in the Gutand only about 1% in the brain. However, serotonin is a primary factor in our ‘feeling ofhappiness’ (or not - depression). I have a fairly extensive background in CognitivePsychology. The Gut Biome has a direct link to our brain (called the second brain) andanything that makes our gut happy is a very good thing. There is a reason for other‘health benefits’ besides purely physical. OK, back to the dirt part: Garlic has a Symbiotic relationship with mycorrhizal activity.The roots of Garlics are tiny, maybe 6-7 inches. However, they are an atom bomb worthof Nutrients. They have an exchange relationship with hyphae bringing elements frommany levels and distance. Garlic is a magnet for so many trace elements that we reallydon’t know enough about its arcane medicinal abilities yet. Many years ago our group tried mixing in Pro Mix BX as a starter for establishing a“Mushroom” network (I spoke with the chief ’scientist’ as I’m a very careful [skeptical]researcher). We used mushroom compost, maybe BS to a degree, however, better thannothing. Years ago, I tried Activated Biochar to 2 of 5 beds; it seemed to make adifference and now all my beds have Activated (must be activated as it will sequesternutrients instead of storing and dissipating them over time). Liquid Fish emulsion is amust early in season and before ’Scapes’ appear. For some strange reason, Garlic LovesSeafood? Kelp, seaweed, shells of Lobster/crabs…anything from a Sea source? Every year I try something in a controlled manner. This one is a ’strange’ experimenthowever. I’m trying half beds of the same cultivar (about 8 or so?) where I’m using a topdressing between rows of this “raised bed soil”. Yes, I’m adding a ’soil’ between rowsand only place it on the East Half (3 beds are 100% full sun, 2 have full sun only afterabout 11 am (east side is retarded sun wise). I did this East soil experiments in all 5 bedsof selected cultivars. I’ll report back in July! I won’t bore you with last year’s lush beds. I have some quick shots. Also, a little bit of agratuitous shot of a huge Dandelion (should be a ‘pin up model’ in a Landscapers lockerroom?) IN Asparagus beds. Very difficult to mess around in asparagus beds as they havemassive (we have 5 20-35 yr old beds) roots systems. As I mentioned: PREBIOTICS are garlic, Onion, Asparagus and Leeks…we grow LOTSof them except Leek. Your gut is your doctor and drug store.
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Manual vs. Mechanical Garden Tools: Which to Choose?
Choosing between manual and mechanical garden tools comes down to your garden size, the type of tasks, and personal preferences. Here's a quick breakdown to help you decide: Manual Tools: Best for small gardens (under 5,000 sq ft). They’re affordable, require minimal maintenance, and are perfect for precise tasks like weeding, pruning, and cultivating around delicate plants. Mechanical Tools: Ideal for larger gardens (over 5,000 sq ft). They save time and effort on labor-intensive tasks like tilling, mowing, and breaking compacted soil but come with higher costs and maintenance needs. Mid-Sized Gardens: Hybrid tools like walk-behind tractors combine the precision of manual tools with the power of mechanical ones, making them a versatile choice. Quick Comparison Feature Manual Tools Mechanical Tools Cost Lower upfront cost Higher upfront cost Maintenance Simple (cleaning, sharpening) Complex (servicing, repairs) Precision Excellent for detailed work Better for large-scale tasks Effort Requires physical labor Reduces physical strain Best For Small gardens, delicate tasks Large gardens, heavy-duty work Key Tip: For eco-friendly gardening, manual tools are quieter and gentler on the soil. Mechanical tools are better suited for speed and efficiency in larger spaces. Choose tools that match your garden's size and your comfort level. Hand Tool Vs Power Tool On Your Homestead! You NEED ... Types of Garden Tools Garden tools can be divided into two main categories: manual and mechanical. Each serves a specific purpose, depending on the task and garden size. Manual Tools Overview Hand tools are perfect for precise tasks and smaller gardens. They allow for detailed work, especially in tight spaces or around delicate plants. For example: Bypass pruners: Ideal for clean cuts on live plants. Anvil pruners: Better suited for cutting deadwood or thicker branches. Tools like the wheel hoe combine the precision of manual tools with some of the efficiency of mechanical options, making them a versatile choice for gardeners. Mechanical Tools Overview Mechanical tools are all about speed and reducing physical effort for larger, labor-intensive tasks. They’re especially useful in bigger gardens where manual tools might fall short. Walk-behind tractors are a great middle ground between manual tools and full-sized tractors. As Joel Dufour puts it: "For big gardens, you need serious tools!" These machines can handle tasks like tilling, mowing, and transporting materials with ease. Here’s a quick guide to choosing tools based on garden size: Garden Size Recommended Tool Type Best Applications Small Gardens (<5,000 sq ft) Manual Tools Weeding, transplanting, precise cultivation 5,000–10,000 sq ft Walk-behind Equipment Tilling, basic maintenance, material transport Over 10,000 sq ft Powered Equipment Large-scale tilling, mowing, heavy material handling When selecting mechanical tools, think about their specific uses. For instance: Electric trimmers: Great for hedges and bushes. Rototillers: Perfect for breaking new ground or compacted soil. While mechanical tools are powerful, they’re best suited for open spaces where precision isn’t a top priority. For detailed tasks near established plants or densely planted areas, manual tools remain the better option. How to Pick the Right Tools Speed and Work Time Manual tools are great for detailed, precise work, but they can be slow when tackling larger areas. On the other hand, mechanical tools are designed for speed but come with additional requirements like fueling, charging, and cleaning. For quick, smaller projects, manual tools might actually save time when you factor in their minimal setup and maintenance. Physical Comfort and Effort Using tools that reduce physical strain can make long gardening sessions much easier. Ergonomic designs, for example, can help with heavy lifting and repetitive tasks. Consider the weight, ease of control, and overall comfort of a tool, especially if you’ll be using it for extended periods. While manual tools provide instant control, mechanical ones may require some adjustment before use. Price and Upkeep Cost is another important factor. Manual tools are usually more affordable upfront and require little maintenance. Mechanical tools, however, come with a higher initial price tag and ongoing upkeep costs. Some well-designed tools might offer durability and performance at a reasonable price, so it’s worth comparing options. Garden Impact Think about how your tools affect your garden. Manual tools are quiet, don’t emit any exhaust, and are gentle on the soil and nearby plants. Mechanical tools, while efficient for larger tasks, can compact soil, produce emissions, and create noise. If you’re focused on minimizing your environmental footprint, manual tools are a better fit for delicate, precise work, while mechanical tools are better suited for bigger, faster jobs. Tool Benefits and Drawbacks When deciding between manual and mechanical gardening tools, it’s all about understanding your garden's needs and the trade-offs each option offers. Manual tools shine in tasks requiring precision, while mechanical tools are ideal for tackling larger spaces with efficiency. Here's a closer look at what each type brings to the table. Manual tools are simple in design, which means they’re easy to maintain. With routine cleaning and proper storage, they can last for years without much hassle. Their straightforward nature also means fewer parts to break or wear out over time. On the other hand, mechanical tools save time and reduce physical effort, making them a great choice for larger gardens. However, they do require regular maintenance, such as servicing and part replacements, which can add to their long-term costs. These tools are especially effective for gardens over 5,000 square feet but demand consistent upkeep to stay in good working order. Manual vs. Mechanical Tools Chart Feature Manual Tools Mechanical Tools Initial Cost Lower Higher Maintenance Basic cleaning and sharpening Regular servicing and parts replacement Garden Suitability Best for smaller gardens (up to 5,000 sq ft) Ideal for larger gardens Physical Effort Requires more physical labor Reduces strain for large-scale tasks Precision Excellent for detailed work Better for broad, less precise tasks Durability Long-lasting with minimal upkeep Requires more frequent repairs For those with gardens that fall between small and large scales, mid-sized tools like wheel hoes and walk-behind tractors can be a smart middle ground. Walk-behind tractors, for instance, offer many of the capabilities of larger tractors but are easier to maneuver and come at a more affordable price. These tools strike a balance, combining the control of manual tools with the power of mechanical ones, making them a practical choice for medium-sized gardens. Choosing the right tools depends on the size of your garden, the level of physical effort you're comfortable with, and how much precision your projects demand. Manual tools are perfect for detailed, small-scale tasks, while mechanical tools are a time-saver for larger areas. For medium-sized gardens, hybrid options bring the best of both worlds. Matching Tools to Your Garden Small Garden Tools For gardens under 5,000 sq ft, manual tools are perfect for tasks that require precision and control. They shine in activities like weeding, pruning, and tending small flower beds or vegetable patches. "Cultivating and weeding with hand tools are my favorite parts of gardening, except for eating the food. The work is quiet and reflective." – Joel Dufour, garden-equipment business owner When choosing tools for smaller gardens, look for these features: Ergonomic handles that fit your height comfortably Durable materials to withstand regular use Lightweight designs to reduce fatigue during longer tasks For larger spaces where manual tools aren't enough, it might be time to consider mechanical options. Big Garden Tools Walk-behind tractors strike a balance between small manual tools and larger, full-sized tractors. These machines are especially useful for medium-sized gardens and offer: Compatibility with various attachments Easy maneuvering in tighter spaces Sturdy, professional-grade construction For gardens over 3 acres, a four-wheel tractor is often the best choice to handle the workload efficiently. Tools for Easy Use Ergonomic design plays a big role in making gardening easier and more enjoyable. The EarthLifter Tool, for example, uses a 4:1 mechanical advantage to simplify tough tasks like: Transplanting delicate plants Harvesting root vegetables Removing stubborn weeds Managing raised beds "From a standing position, when you bend forward at the waist right in front of you, there is up to a 100% loss of the lumbar lordosis, which creates pathological tension on the associated intervertebral discs, spinal cord, cauda equina, and spinal nerves of the lumbar spine." – Kevin Khalili, DC, founder of the Laser Rehab Institute To make gardening more accessible and comfortable, consider tools and features like: Raised planters that reduce the need for bending Long-handled tools for better reach Wheeled dollies to move heavy items Garden stools to bring the work closer to you Combining ergonomic designs with tools that offer mechanical advantages can make gardening a more enjoyable and less physically demanding activity for everyone. Conclusion Selecting the right gardening tools comes down to matching your garden's needs with tools that make the work easier and more comfortable. For smaller gardens, manual tools provide control and precision while staying budget-friendly. On the other hand, larger spaces might warrant investing in mechanical tools to save time and reduce physical effort. The right tools can completely change how you approach gardening. When deciding, focus on these factors: Size and complexity of your garden Comfort and ease of use Maintenance requirements Budget Take the EarthLifter Tool, for example. Its thoughtful design makes gardening less strenuous. Shirley from New York shares her experience: "Normally when I weed my flower garden, I bend over and my lower back just kills me. And the best part about it is that - with the drill till you can stand up and do it. So I can keep going for a long time without getting sore back". Pick tools that fit your garden's specific needs to make your work easier and more enjoyable. FAQs How can I decide if manual or mechanical tools are better for my garden size? Choosing between manual and mechanical tools largely depends on the size of your garden and the type of tasks you need to tackle. For smaller gardens, typically under 5,000 square feet, manual tools like hand pruners, hoes, or rakes are often sufficient and cost-effective. They’re ideal for precision work and lighter tasks. For larger spaces, especially those over 3 acres, mechanical tools such as electric trimmers, rototillers, or even tractors become more practical. These tools save time and effort when managing extensive areas or heavy-duty projects. Consider your physical capabilities and the scope of your gardening tasks to make the best choice for your needs. How do manual and mechanical garden tools impact the environment? Manual garden tools are more environmentally friendly because they produce no emissions and require no fuel. In contrast, mechanical tools, especially gas-powered ones, release harmful pollutants like carbon dioxide, which contribute to climate change and reduce air quality. Additionally, refueling gas tools can result in spills, potentially contaminating soil and water. If you're looking to reduce your carbon footprint and support sustainable gardening practices, opting for manual tools is a simple and effective choice. When is a hybrid tool like a walk-behind tractor more useful than using just manual or mechanical tools? Hybrid tools like walk-behind tractors can be incredibly useful for tasks that require a balance of power and precision. For example, they are ideal for breaking new ground in larger areas where manual tools would be too labor-intensive and mechanical tools might lack the necessary control. They also excel in tasks like preparing seedbeds or cultivating soil in medium-to-large gardens, offering more versatility than single-purpose tools. By combining the efficiency of mechanical tools with the adaptability of manual tools, hybrid options can save time and energy while still allowing for detailed work. These tools are especially beneficial for gardeners with larger plots or those working on varied terrain who need a solution that bridges the gap between power and flexibility. Related posts 7 Essential Gardening Tools for Seniors: Reducing Physical Strain Best Tools for Disabled Gardeners: Accessibility Guide Ultimate Guide to Transplanting Delicate Plants Safely
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- garlic
- gut biome
Garlic – The magic plant for a fabulously healthy gut biome
Hello Garlic growers and friendsI have been exchanging information with Garlic Growers and related folks from manyregions for a very long time.The common or “fixed” variable is that all the original genetics or seed come from MySeeds (heads and cloves) grown in Bovina, NY. For the newer, or not as deeply involved folks, Garlic may be the most magnificent gift you give yourself, when you considerchoosing one plant embodying the essence of what a ‘gift’ is. A short dissertation about the almost magical properties of this ancient herb is that thereare hundreds of variations. My wife thinks that we have grown over 40 cultivars inquantities but have tried and definitely tasted well over 50. In 34 years I have about 16-18that we consider ‘main’ varieties (cultivars) and every year I try to propagate a few more.This year we have 18 main (between 40 and 150) all stars and trying to propagate another9. Probably around 1800+ Heads. This year my fellow scientist Barbara wanted me toenlarge a bunch of tiny size samples into our usual huge and delicious characteristics.This is only a hobby and a source of Gift Giving. We give about 30 friends and relatives 2or so heads of between 9 and 15 cultivars as a once a year: birthday, X-mas, Holidays,remembrance; whatever! Giving a box of chocolates would be much easier, cheaper andless time consuming, but giving a bunch of health, taste from ’sweat equity’, THAT is agift. I am amused by knowledge. It seems I realize how little I know the more I try to learn.Every year I try to remind my Grower friends about important times to check ‘waypoints’or gestation milestones. I also get amused when people say growing garlic is veryeasy??? Yes, garlic is easy, great Garlic is a pain and requires a lot of work. Think aboutit, what crop takes Planting in Oct-Nov (About 4 of us are in zone 4-5, some South, some‘beachy’ areas, some middle climates, etc.). My area is 2,000’ in Ski area, some say I livein Southern Siberia. We ‘pull’ and start to cure in July and don’t get fully ‘ripe’ untilSeptember…11 months! Garlic takes longer for full gestation than a human baby! Over the years I curated, tried, and culled my tastes to grow Only Hard Neck and only 4subspecies (mainly). Many reasons…taste is #1. There is a huge difference in wines,beers, Vodkas, etc. as well as many spices and foods of all types. My #2 reason is health.Garlic has 130 or so Sulphur compounds and Garlic is a primary PREbiotic (onion,asparagus, leeks and Garlic). Garlic is especially powerful as a sort of ‘fertilizer’ for theother Probiotics, and Gut Health is the primary ’nutrition network’ for the immunesystem. I can get extremely technical but just as a hint; my major studies for 40 years have to dowith Serotonin…a very difficult to understand neurotransmitter that is made in the Gutand only about 1% in the brain. However, serotonin is a primary factor in our ‘feeling ofhappiness’ (or not - depression). I have a fairly extensive background in CognitivePsychology. The Gut Biome has a direct link to our brain (called the second brain) andanything that makes our gut happy is a very good thing. There is a reason for other‘health benefits’ besides purely physical. OK, back to the dirt part: Garlic has a Symbiotic relationship with mycorrhizal activity.The roots of Garlics are tiny, maybe 6-7 inches. However, they are an atom bomb worthof Nutrients. They have an exchange relationship with hyphae bringing elements frommany levels and distance. Garlic is a magnet for so many trace elements that we reallydon’t know enough about its arcane medicinal abilities yet. Many years ago our group tried mixing in Pro Mix BX as a starter for establishing a“Mushroom” network (I spoke with the chief ’scientist’ as I’m a very careful [skeptical]researcher). We used mushroom compost, maybe BS to a degree, however, better thannothing. Years ago, I tried Activated Biochar to 2 of 5 beds; it seemed to make adifference and now all my beds have Activated (must be activated as it will sequesternutrients instead of storing and dissipating them over time). Liquid Fish emulsion is amust early in season and before ’Scapes’ appear. For some strange reason, Garlic LovesSeafood? Kelp, seaweed, shells of Lobster/crabs…anything from a Sea source? Every year I try something in a controlled manner. This one is a ’strange’ experimenthowever. I’m trying half beds of the same cultivar (about 8 or so?) where I’m using a topdressing between rows of this “raised bed soil”. Yes, I’m adding a ’soil’ between rowsand only place it on the East Half (3 beds are 100% full sun, 2 have full sun only afterabout 11 am (east side is retarded sun wise). I did this East soil experiments in all 5 bedsof selected cultivars. I’ll report back in July! I won’t bore you with last year’s lush beds. I have some quick shots. Also, a little bit of agratuitous shot of a huge Dandelion (should be a ‘pin up model’ in a Landscapers lockerroom?) IN Asparagus beds. Very difficult to mess around in asparagus beds as they havemassive (we have 5 20-35 yr old beds) roots systems. As I mentioned: PREBIOTICS are garlic, Onion, Asparagus and Leeks…we grow LOTSof them except Leek. Your gut is your doctor and drug store.
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- garlic
- gut biome
Garlic – The magic plant for a fabulously healthy gut biome
Hello Garlic growers and friendsI have been exchanging information with Garlic Growers and related folks from manyregions for a very long time.The common or “fixed” variable is that all the original genetics or seed come from MySeeds (heads and cloves) grown in Bovina, NY. For the newer, or not as deeply involved folks, Garlic may be the most magnificent gift you give yourself, when you considerchoosing one plant embodying the essence of what a ‘gift’ is. A short dissertation about the almost magical properties of this ancient herb is that thereare hundreds of variations. My wife thinks that we have grown over 40 cultivars inquantities but have tried and definitely tasted well over 50. In 34 years I have about 16-18that we consider ‘main’ varieties (cultivars) and every year I try to propagate a few more.This year we have 18 main (between 40 and 150) all stars and trying to propagate another9. Probably around 1800+ Heads. This year my fellow scientist Barbara wanted me toenlarge a bunch of tiny size samples into our usual huge and delicious characteristics.This is only a hobby and a source of Gift Giving. We give about 30 friends and relatives 2or so heads of between 9 and 15 cultivars as a once a year: birthday, X-mas, Holidays,remembrance; whatever! Giving a box of chocolates would be much easier, cheaper andless time consuming, but giving a bunch of health, taste from ’sweat equity’, THAT is agift. I am amused by knowledge. It seems I realize how little I know the more I try to learn.Every year I try to remind my Grower friends about important times to check ‘waypoints’or gestation milestones. I also get amused when people say growing garlic is veryeasy??? Yes, garlic is easy, great Garlic is a pain and requires a lot of work. Think aboutit, what crop takes Planting in Oct-Nov (About 4 of us are in zone 4-5, some South, some‘beachy’ areas, some middle climates, etc.). My area is 2,000’ in Ski area, some say I livein Southern Siberia. We ‘pull’ and start to cure in July and don’t get fully ‘ripe’ untilSeptember…11 months! Garlic takes longer for full gestation than a human baby! Over the years I curated, tried, and culled my tastes to grow Only Hard Neck and only 4subspecies (mainly). Many reasons…taste is #1. There is a huge difference in wines,beers, Vodkas, etc. as well as many spices and foods of all types. My #2 reason is health.Garlic has 130 or so Sulphur compounds and Garlic is a primary PREbiotic (onion,asparagus, leeks and Garlic). Garlic is especially powerful as a sort of ‘fertilizer’ for theother Probiotics, and Gut Health is the primary ’nutrition network’ for the immunesystem. I can get extremely technical but just as a hint; my major studies for 40 years have to dowith Serotonin…a very difficult to understand neurotransmitter that is made in the Gutand only about 1% in the brain. However, serotonin is a primary factor in our ‘feeling ofhappiness’ (or not - depression). I have a fairly extensive background in CognitivePsychology. The Gut Biome has a direct link to our brain (called the second brain) andanything that makes our gut happy is a very good thing. There is a reason for other‘health benefits’ besides purely physical. OK, back to the dirt part: Garlic has a Symbiotic relationship with mycorrhizal activity.The roots of Garlics are tiny, maybe 6-7 inches. However, they are an atom bomb worthof Nutrients. They have an exchange relationship with hyphae bringing elements frommany levels and distance. Garlic is a magnet for so many trace elements that we reallydon’t know enough about its arcane medicinal abilities yet. Many years ago our group tried mixing in Pro Mix BX as a starter for establishing a“Mushroom” network (I spoke with the chief ’scientist’ as I’m a very careful [skeptical]researcher). We used mushroom compost, maybe BS to a degree, however, better thannothing. Years ago, I tried Activated Biochar to 2 of 5 beds; it seemed to make adifference and now all my beds have Activated (must be activated as it will sequesternutrients instead of storing and dissipating them over time). Liquid Fish emulsion is amust early in season and before ’Scapes’ appear. For some strange reason, Garlic LovesSeafood? Kelp, seaweed, shells of Lobster/crabs…anything from a Sea source? Every year I try something in a controlled manner. This one is a ’strange’ experimenthowever. I’m trying half beds of the same cultivar (about 8 or so?) where I’m using a topdressing between rows of this “raised bed soil”. Yes, I’m adding a ’soil’ between rowsand only place it on the East Half (3 beds are 100% full sun, 2 have full sun only afterabout 11 am (east side is retarded sun wise). I did this East soil experiments in all 5 bedsof selected cultivars. I’ll report back in July! I won’t bore you with last year’s lush beds. I have some quick shots. Also, a little bit of agratuitous shot of a huge Dandelion (should be a ‘pin up model’ in a Landscapers lockerroom?) IN Asparagus beds. Very difficult to mess around in asparagus beds as they havemassive (we have 5 20-35 yr old beds) roots systems. As I mentioned: PREBIOTICS are garlic, Onion, Asparagus and Leeks…we grow LOTSof them except Leek. Your gut is your doctor and drug store.
Read article